Brewing Past, Present, and Future Vitality in Maui

April 3, 2025
Brewing Past, Present, and Future Vitality in Maui

We caught up with Lehia Apana, founder of Polipoli Farms, to hear the story behind their Māmaki and ‘Ulu Tea Blend — only available in our Spring Seasonal Subscription Box.

Deep in the fertile valleys of Maui lies a three-acre regenerative food forest called Polipoli Farms. Here, a lush interplay of Native Hawaiian and Polynesian plants serve a sole purpose: tend to the ecosystem. Their Māmaki and ‘Ulu in our new Tea Blend are a testament to this commitment — pairing well in the forest, but also in the cup.

Lehia and Brad, wife and husband duo born and raised on Maui, do this through a method called ‘ohana style planting. An indigenous practice now known as agroforestry that honors every member of the forest and their role – from the ground covers, the bush level, the tree story, to the upper canopy.

Hawiian Natural Tea Hawiian Natural Tea

“Part of our larger mission is for people to understand this place and its history. Because once you do, you will love it. And once you love it, you will want to protect it. We can get to know it by tasting it, and connecting to its food.”

— LEHIA APANA 

‘Ulu, or breadfruit, is a “canoe crop” — originally brought by Polynesians when they first arrived in Hawai'i. It is the overstory, providing shade and protection to the forest. And Māmaki, endemic to Hawai`i, loves shade. So it thrives around the ‘Ulu. Their pairing represents what a reciprocal relationship can be at its best. And it translates to the Tea.

The result is a powerful elixir filled with antioxidants and a nutty, herbal, naturally sweet taste — with Māmaki being deeply revered as an ancient healing plant in lāʻau lapaʻau, or Hawaiian plant medicine. Brewing not just physical and ecological vitality, but also a cultural and spiritual connection to past generations.

“This tea is our daily vitamin in a cup. For me personally, this tea is also spiritually healing. Because of those stories, because of what these plants represent, this tea is a communion with my ancestors.”

— LEHIA APANA 

This connection to the past came as a surprise. It happened when Lehia and Brad first arrived at Polipoli. The land was totally overgrown with invasive plants, and as they began to clear it, they were shocked to discover that underneath it all, the same traditional terraces once used for growing Kalo, or Taro, still remained. This canoe crop was historically cultivated in that valley — once feeding countless generations of native Hawaiians. 

This discovery meant that Polipoli sat on the same ʻāina, or land, that once fed their ancestors.

“Some people might go to cathedrals or museums. For us, it’s right here. We walk out of our door step and see the place that fed our ancestors, and it is not something we take lightly.”

— LEHIA APANA 

This Tea allows you to taste the complex, storied pulse of Hawai’i. Beyond the postcard version. Honoring its past, tending to its present, and planting for its future — one cup of Māmaki and ‘Ulu at a time.

“We’ve lost the humanity in our food. And what is more human than food? The way that we can bring it back is to share its journey.”

— LEHIA APANA 

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